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As well as most European airlines which offer services to the Austrian capital, there are also three Austrian-based airlines: Austrian Airlines, Lauda Air and Tyrolean Airways, which offer flights from Europe and the US.

Vienna’s international airport is 20km (12.5 miles) southeast of the city. Taxis to the centre cost about €32.00; the airport bus costs €6. A commuter train on the S7 line also operates between 5am and 10:15pm and is a cheaper option at €2.00. The CAT (City Airport Train), every 30 minutes from Wien Mitte and Rennweg, costs €9.

Vienna has several main railway lines that link up to most major European destinations. Details of train times can be obtained from the Austrian train company the ÖBB.

Vienna has three main railway stations. From the Westbahnhof, trains head mainly to western Europe (Germany, Switzerland and Hungary); there are also good links to tram and underground lines (U3, U6). Trains from the Südbahnhof head mostly eastwards (Croatia, East Germany and Italy) while the Franz-Josef-Bahnhof has train connections to Berlin, the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Coach (long-distance bus) services are often the cheapest way to reach Vienna, although not the quickest or most comfortable. Many services operate to eastern Europe, from the Wien Mitte station. The Austrian ÖBB bus service has excellent links with the rest of the country.

Although landlocked, Vienna is accessible by high-speed hydrofoil or ship from a number of cities along the Danube, including Bratislava (Slovakia), Budapest (Hungary) and Passau (Germany).

If you are visiting from Germany or Switzerland you will arrive on the Westautobahn (A1). Drivers coming from the south will arrive on the Südautobahn (A2). A toll-sticker is needed on all Austrian motorways, purchased when entering the country. Price depends on length of stay.

In Vienna many of the districts, including the 1st–9th and 20th, are short-term parking areas for which special tickets are required. The tickets allow you to park for 90 minutes from 9am–7pm Monday to Friday in the 1st district and elsewhere for 120 minutes from 9am–8pm Monday to Friday. But beware of special signs and different times in shopping areas. Tickets range from €0.40 to €1.20 and can be bought from newsagents, some banks, railway stations and at most public transport ticket offices. Disabled people can park for free. Hotels in short-term parking areas offer free tickets to guests.

All visitors travelling to Austria need a valid passport or form of ID. Some non-EU residents may require a visa – for more information contact your Austrian embassy before leaving home.

There are five underground lines in Vienna, distinguished by colour and number, connecting all parts of the city. It is a fast, clean and reliable way of getting around. A single ticket valid on bus, tram, underground and special S-Bahn trains costs €1.50 (or €2.00 if you buy on board). Children, dogs and bikes need tickets, too. You can also buy tickets valid for 24 hours (€5.00) or 72 hours (€12.00). They can be bought at underground stations and newsagents.

Vienna’s first trams, which were horse-drawn, started in 1865. Since then the Viennese have feverishly expanded this network. Trams clearly show their destination at the front of the vehicle and tickets can be bought from machines at the front of the tram. Ticket prices are the same as for the underground.

There are about 60 bus lines to choose from, and this is the only public transport operating in the 1st district, as well as some suburbs. Tickets are purchased on board the bus from either machines or the driver. Some buses have machines on board for you to validate your ticket with a stamp.

The S-Bahn (Fast Train) is an important rail service within the city, especially along the north–southwest trunk line or the S7 to the airport. The normal public transport tickets used for bus, tram and underground travel are valid on S-Bahn trains. All three major S-Bahn stations are accessible by public transport.

If you prefer a more leisurely way of getting around Vienna, the best way would be in a horse-drawn cab known as a Fiaker . These were once Vienna’s taxi transport, but today they are mostly used for ceremonial purposes and as a tourist attraction. Fiaker ranks are at the Staatsoper, the Hofburg Complex, and beside the Stephansdom Cathedral.

A bicycle is an ideal way to explore Vienna. A free bike service known as ViennaBike is currently in operation and guided tours by bike are also available.

Vienna’s taxis are numerous, although most prefer to collect passengers at the ranks or by pre-booking rather than being flagged down. Taxis are run by reputable companies and cases of abuse are rare. The minimum charge is €2.50 during the day, followed by an extra €0.20 per kilometre. The minimum charge at night, Sundays and holidays is €2.60.

The boarding station for most boat trips on the Danube is at Schwedenplatz (U1,U4) which is on a tributary, or on the river itself at the Reichsbrücke.

When driving in Vienna you will need to carry a valid international driving licence at all times, as well as a toll sticker (vignette ) for the motorways and A roads (see p132). Speed limits on motorways are 130 kmph (80 mph), 100 kmph (60 mph) on country roads and 50 kmph (30 mph) in towns and villages.

The Austrian Tourist Office can provide you all the general information you will need. Questions concerning travel tips, accommodation, culture, weather reports and more will be answered by the helpful staff.

At the Vienna Tourist Office you can pick up leaflets on the city’s sights and cultural events as well as on accommodation and guided tours.

For general information visit www.austriatourism.at. The website of the Vienna Tourist Board also contains information for blind visitors (www.info.wien.at). Other useful websites are given below.

Falter, die Wiener Stadtzeitung (The Vienna City Newspaper) gives an excellent and comprehensive insight of what’s going on in Vienna. It is available at any news-agent. Even if you don’t speak German, the listings are easy to follow.

The monthly brochure Wien-Programm offers an excellent overview of what Vienna has to offer. The listings include virtually every event in the city, ranging from festivals to concerts, from theatre and opera performances to sport events and markets. You can pick it up for free in travel agencies, tourist offices and ticket offices.

There is only one English-language newspaper, Austria Today , which is also available on the Internet (www.austriatoday.at) (see p136).

If you want to explore Vienna on foot you can join a variety of topical guided tours. Choose to follow in the footsteps of Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert, take a tour through the old city or Jewish Vienna or descend to underground Vienna (see pp62–3).

Several companies do bus tours to Vienna’s most famous sights. As in many other European cities there is also a hopon-hop-off bus circling the most famous landmarks, allowing you enough time to stay at whichever sight you like most.

Exploring Vienna on a bike is a good alternative if you want to see the sights from a relaxed perspective. Several companies, such as Pedal Power and Bike and Guide, offer guided bike tours of two to three hours, held each year in spring and summer.

Many visitors get caught by the frequent ticket inspector checks for failing to validate their ticket by putting it into the slot at one of the blue machines at the entrances to underground stations or on buses or trams. Fines for first-time offenders are as much as €60.

The wheel clamp and tow-away system has not been privatized so is not as enthusiastic as it is in other European capitals, yet the Viennese are fast to do their civic duty and report anyone blocking driveways. If your car is seized or caught in a clamp after a short but illegal stay, the police are the first port of call. Make sure you have the registration and street address to hand.

Vienna increasingly is suffering the same problems of street crime experienced in all major cities. In addition to the usual precautions, the Prater theme park should be avoided in winter when it is deserted. Visitors shouldn’t linger in certain underground stations, such as Karlsplatz and Praterstern/Wien Nord, for longer than it takes to get on and off the train.

Tipping in Austria is a way of showing that you were happy with the service and is not included in the price. Saying thank you (Danke ) when handing over the cash means “keep the change”. A good rule of thumb is to tip 10 per cent of the total bill. A smaller tip is acceptable, but no tip means the service was bad and is seen as a way of complaining.

Viennese have no concept of how to behave in a queue so the “everyone for themselves” rule applies. Particularly annoying are banks and post offices where it’s hit-and-miss whether you join the right queue and don’t get stuck behind someone arguing for the next hour.

The Viennese frown on petty lawbreakers as though they were major criminals. They follow the most little-known rules such as “don’t walk on the grass” even when walking home drunk in the early hours of the morning. Crossing on a red light will risk a fine even if there’s not a car in sight. Older Viennese are frequently seen chastizing others over anything from walking on the grass to making too much noise.

The traditional coffee shops in Vienna are famous not only for their drinks but also for their grumpy and usually slow waiters. This is a part of the city’s charm, but if you are in a hurry pay when the drink or snack turns up - or else expect a long wait.

Don’t expect to be able to use your credit cards as easily as back home. Some restaurants and small shops don’t regard the number of credit cards used worth the investment in the equipment. Check whether you can use your card before running up a large bill.

Sunday is still seen as a holy day in Catholic Austria, which means shops stay closed. Some bakeries have now been granted exemption and there are supermarkets open at the Westbahnhof and shops at larger petrol stations.

Since 1 January 2002 the official currency used in Austria is the euro, which replaced the old Austrian currency, the schilling. Euro banknotes have the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Euro coins come in eight denominations: 1 euro, 2 euros, and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents. Visitors from outside the euro zone should check the exchange rates at the time of travel. Notes and coins can be used regardless of origin throughout the euro zone.

Not as widely used as in other places. Check signs on the door before running up a high bill (see p135).

Cash dispensers can be found all over Vienna, usually next to banks. You can easily spot them by the sign mounted above or near the cash dispenser that resembles a letter “B” in blue and green. It is also possible to pay with debit cards in many shops and some restaurants.

You can change money at banks, at the usual bureaux de change all around the city, or at one of the automated changing machines in the city centre.

Yellow-fronted post offices are usually open 8am–noon and 2–6pm Monday to Friday. District post offices remain open during lunch hours and are open 8–10am on Saturdays. Post offices in railway stations and the main post office (Fleischmarkt 19) are open 24 hours daily.

Public coin-box (booth) telephones are found on nearly every street corner and in some public buildings. Phone cards for card telephones can be purchased at tobacconists, newsagents and post offices and are available for €3.60 and €6.90. The international dialling code for Austria is 0043 and 01 for Vienna.

Vienna offers a wide range of Internet cafés and you can find some terminals in many coffeehouses and pubs. These include BigNet branches at Kärntner Strasse 61 in the 1st district (open 10am–2am daily) and at Mariahilfer Strasse 27 in the 6th district (open 8am–2am daily) with more than 200 workstations.

Austria has a widely developed mobile phone network and even phones from abroad will work all over the city and on the underground – as long as the roaming function has been cleared. It is possible to buy chip cards which can be charged with a set value for the duration of your holiday – providing you have a phone to go with them.

Most publications in Austria are state subsidized and as a result usually follow the same agenda even though they have different party affiliations. The largest is the tabloid Die Kronen Zeitung and its up-market sister the Kurier . Die Presse is the most respected and Der Standard is the best business paper. Larger newsstands will sell international papers such the Times ,The Economist ,The Guardian , the New York Times and the Herald Tribune usually one day after publication. Falter is the main listings magazine (see p134).

Vienna was one of the safest cities in Europe, but unfortunately crime levels have risen and mugging has become quite common. Travelling by public transport poses few dangers, and police are omnipresent in case of trouble (see p135).

Emergency numbers can be called for free from all public phone booths. You will have to give your name, the address of the emergency and how many people are involved. Police stations are located all across Vienna and you should report any crime.

Pickpocketing is probably the most common crime you will face in Vienna. As a tourist you are a potential target at queues and busy places (particularly at cash dispensers). Stay alert, keep credit cards in a different place to your money and bags closed.

Fast, efficient and clean, Vienna’s public transport is a model for the world, in part because it is heavily funded by the state. Trains, buses, trams and the underground are very secure but the usual safety precautions should still be applied.

Austria has one of the finest health care systems in Europe. No expense is spared to give patients first-class medical treatment and if you have to go to an Austrian doctor or hospital, you can expect a service at least equal in quality to one you might expect at home. Waiting times in surgeries and emergency rooms are also surprisingly small in comparison with other countries.

Visitors from EU countries will need an E111 form, available from post offices in your home country, but serious injuries or illness will always be treated first, and arguments about costs will follow later. There will be a fair amount of paperwork to be filled in, however.

Expect VIP treatment at Austrian hospitals, at least as far as the medical care is concerned. Most complaints, if there are any, centre around the food, so if you are visiting anyone in hospital food parcels are a good idea.

Several organizations operate ambulance services across Vienna. If you need an ambulance, call 144.

Addresses of pharmacies (Apotheken ) can be found in the telephone directory or by calling the emergency chemists’ service (recorded information in German) on 01 1550. You can identify pharmacies by the green cross and red “A” outside.

For your stay in Vienna the Tourist Information Office on Albertinaplatz in the 1st district has a number of booklets for the disabled and offers a disabled booking service. It is open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Several organizations in Vienna offer help and advice. You can contact Bizeps, an advice centre for people with disabilities, the Austrian Association for the Hearing Impaired and the Austrian Blind Union.

It is advisable to check before booking accommodation as many older hotels lack facilities for the disabled. The Vienna Tourist Board has nominated hotels suitable for people with disabilities, among them the ANA Grand Hotel, the Marriott and the Ibis.

There are a number of taxi and transport companies providing special services. To order a taxi for people with hearing or other disabilities, fax the radio taxi service “40 100”. The special order-form and confirmation will be sent back to you immediately.

Many of the city’s public buses have been replaced with street-level vehicles but not all of the city’s public transport is well equipped. Only the bus lines 5A, 7A, 8A, 13A, 57A, 63A, 77A, 83A and 84A have entrances with fold-out ramps.

Viennese underground stations are equipped with “guiding stripes” that guide the way to exits, elevators and escalators. A Braille station map of Vienna’s underground system can be purchased from the public transport operator Wiener Linien. All three major train stations in Vienna are accessible by wheelchair and both the Westbahnhof and the Südbahnhof offer boarding and disembarking assistance.

Numerous restaurants in Vienna are accessible by wheelchair and offer special parking facilities and some restaurants also offer menus for the visually impaired. It is recommended to call the restaurant prior to the visit to ensure it offers the facilities needed.

Many of Vienna’s attractions are housed in historic buildings and therefore access can be difficult at times. Search the Vienna Tourist Board website to find the sights that offer the best services for the disabled.

Special guides for tours around the city can be found under www.info.wien.at.

You can cut your travel costs by choosing the right public transport ticket for your purposes. There are cards for 72 hours or 24 hours, as well as tickets that allow you to travel on public transport from 8am–8pm (Einkaufskarte ). However, single tickets are better value if you don’t plan to use public transport very frequently. Buying tickets at a newsagent is also a little cheaper.

This card is a ticket for the city’s public transport in combination with reductions at 170 museums and sights, concerts, theatres, shops, restaurants, cafés and Heurigen (wine taverns). For €16.90 you can travel on Vienna’s underground, buses, trains and trams for 72 hours. You can purchase the Vienna Card at hotels and from tourist offices.

There are several youth hostels in and around Vienna, and some student halls of residence are converted into hotels in the summer. A room or an apartment in private homes for a stay of three days or more can be arranged via a private accommodation agency.

Bringing your own tent or campervan and staying at one of the four camping sites in Vienna certainly cuts down accommodation costs. Don’t attempt this in winter, however – temperatures reach far below zero. For further information see www.wiencamping.at.

If you have a small travel budget, it does help to pick the right area for a bite to eat and accommodation. Central Vienna can get pretty expensive but staying in a hotel or a B&B a bit further afield reduces the costs considerably.

Although traditional Viennese cafés might be expensive, you will never be told to leave when you have finished your cup of coffee. You can sip your Melange (see p77) and your glass of water for hours, while having the choice of reading a range of daily national and international newspapers and magazines.

Vienna’s theatres and concert halls offer a superb programme and are also affordable for small budgets. There are reduced prices for children under 15, for students and people doing army or community service. Thirty minutes before any performance, the remaining tickets are sold at a cheaper price, and on producing a valid student ID they cost even less. For between €1.20 and €2.00 you can get standing tickets for a performance in the Burg-theater or the Staatsoper.

Cinema Monday means all seats are the same price (€5.40), regardless of where you sit, following the first-come-first-served principle. But many cinemas also offer reduced prices on other days of the week.

Although eating out in Vienna can be expensive, there is a wide range of reasonably priced restaurants and a midday set menu, on offer in most places, is always a bargain. Avoid eateries along the tourist trails and go for traditional Viennese places, particularly around the university and the Town Hall and Museumsquartier.

Vienna’s best buys are all kinds of chocolates as well as cakes and pastries, with the Sachertorte being the most famous (see pp72–3). High-quality ground coffees are offered throughout the city. You will find beautiful glassware and porcelain in traditional patterns, such as Augarten, but the exclusive items tend to be quite expensive. Other Austrian goods are coats and jackets made of the woollen fabric Loden, as well as traditional clothing such as Dirndl dresses.

Vienna’s shops are, with a few exceptions, closed on Sundays and public holidays. Generally shops are open from around 8am or 9am to around 6pm. Smaller shops close for an hour at lunchtime and on Saturdays shops close at 5pm. Mini-markets at main train stations and large petrol stations are open seven days a week.

Paying by cash is still the preferred method in Vienna as the city is not particularly geared towards credit cards. But many shops, particularly large stores, have ATM machines and will accept major credit cards – but always check in advance just to be sure.

As a foreign visitor to Vienna (and non-EU resident) you are entitled to a VAT/GST refund on purchases. Look out for the Global Refund Tax Free Shopping stickers in shop windows or ask the shop assistant for details. The VAT (value-added tax) in Austria is 20 per cent.

The elegant shopping streets in the 1st district around the Kärntner Strasse, Graben and Kohlmarkt area (see p92) are a great, if pricey, choice. Mariahilfer Strasse (see p110) is the less expensive option with trendy fashions and department stores. On the outskirts of the city are several shopping centres such as the SCS (bus or train from the Opera House) or the Donauzentrum (U1 line to Kagran).

Vienna’s best gifts are chocolates in pretty boxes, such as the world-famous Mozart balls or the Sisi Taler . Many Konditoreien (cake shops) offer Sachertorte packed in a wooden case to take home; some will also ship them for you across the globe. Bottles of Austrian wine or Schnaps also make nice gifts. Vienna’s museum shops have a range of beautiful items, such as stationery with Art Nouveau patterns.

In addition to chocolates, there are many delicatessen shops that sell jars of jam, pickled vegetables, Austrian wines and other goodies. The best food shopping area for nibbles from Asia to Eastern Europe is Naschmarkt (see p109). Be it spices, special vinegars, sweets or cheese, you will find something to your taste.

There are several bookstores in Vienna that specialize in English literature and you will find a few bestsellers in any large bookshop. The city’s largest music store is Virgin Megastore on Mariahilfer Strasse.

Viennese jewellery is world famous. Köchert and Heldwein were the jewellers at the imperial court and the company still manufactures pieces in their workshops on Neuer Markt and Graben. Michaela Frey offers an Art Nouveau-inspired collection.

Viennese cuisine was influenced by the Habsburg lands in imperial times. It picked the best dishes from each country and adapted them to Austrian taste buds. The Viennese love hearty and rather heavy meat dishes and although restaurants increasingly include vegetarian dishes in their menus, it can be hard to find a meatless dish. Don’t miss the enormous variety of cakes and pastries accompanied by a cup of coffee.

Throughout the city you can find all types of restaurants ranging from elegant eateries to Beisl – traditional Viennese places serving simple dishes. But Vienna is most famous for its coffee-houses that are cosy, unhurried places where time seems to stand still. The Heurigen (wine taverns) serve hearty food and local wine (see pp74–5). Würstelstand are little sausage stalls scattered all around town and open late in the evenings.

When going out in Vienna you can dress quite casually most of the time, but the grand restaurants and stylish bars in the city centre expect their customers to dress smartly.

It is advisable to make reservations if you are planning to eat at a special restaurant. Restaurants in the city centre can get very busy – if you are in a big group, make sure you book a table. Except for luxury restaurants and some bars, you may choose your own table and don’t need to wait to be seated.

The variety of restaurants mirrors the variation in prices. A meal at a coffee shop (including coffee) might cost you about €12.00, but in a Beisl you may pay only €2.80 for a soup and €6–€14.00 for a main course. Meals at luxury restaurants start at about €18.00. Most places offer a bargain midday set menu for a two- or three-course meal for between €5.00 and €7.00.

Vienna’s hotels range from 1- to 5-star and the most luxurious are in the city centre. The cheaper options are B&Bs, called Pensionen , where you usually get good service for your money. There are various youth hostels in town and students’ halls of residence are rented out during the summer. There are four camping sites around Vienna (see p139).

The area in which you pick a hotel inevitably influences the price. Vienna’s 1st district is the most expensive although alongside the posh hotels there are also several B&Bs. The Town Hall and Museums-quartier is very popular with budget travellers.

Most hotels and Pensionen have rooms at various rates depending on the size and the facilities. Single rooms are usually three-quarters of the price of double rooms. Vienna’s low season runs from November to March, but only some hotels drop their prices at that time.

If you are visiting Vienna in peak season (April to October) book in advance. Verify the time of day you will arrive, so that you do not find your room rented out to someone else. The Vienna Tourist Board (see p134) offers help with bookings.