Pitti Palace, Florence
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This one-time residence of the Medici family is a treasure trove: there are royal apartments, galleries of modern art, costume, silverware and porcelain. But above all there is the Galleria Palatina, frescoed by Pietro da Cortona, and second only to the Uffizi. It contains one of the world’s best collections of Raphaels and Titians. The paintings are still hung 19th-century style, when “Does that Tintoretto match the room’s decor?” or “Let’s put all the round ones together” mattered more than any didactic arrangement.
For more on the Galleria Palatina (see Pitti Palace: Galleria Palatina) For more on the Medici family (see Medici Rulers)
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1. La Velata
Raphael did many portraits, usually of Madonnas, and several of his best are in these collections. La Velata (1516) is his masterpiece of the form, demonstrating his mastery of colour, light and form. The sitter is most likely La Fornarina, Raphael’s Roman girlfriend.
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2. Consequences of War
Venus tries to stop Mars going to war, while a Fate pulls him towards it (1638;). This was an ageing Rubens’s plea against his homeland becoming embroiled in the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48).
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3. Mary Magdalene
The first (1535) of many Mary Magdalenes painted by the Venetian master Titian.
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4. Boboli Gardens
The Renaissance garden with Baroque and Rococo touches has cypress avenues, hidden statues and burbling fountains.
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5. Madonna and Child
Filippo Lippi has masterfully placed the Madonna’s chin in this 1450 painting’s geometric centre, helping to unite a complex composition involving both the main scene and background images from the life of the Virgin.
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6. Three Ages of Man
The attribution of this allegorical work of 1500 to Giorgione is not certain, but it is a beautiful piece nonetheless, with a strong sense of colour and composition. Compare it with the Baroque Four Ages of Man (1637), which was frescoed by Pietro da Cortona on the ceiling of the Sala della Stufa.
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7. Green Room, the Royal Apartments
The best-preserved room in the royal apartments (Appartamenti Reali) contains such lavish furnishings as an ebony cabinet inlaid with semi-precious stones and bronze. The ceiling of the Green Room is set with trompe l’oeil stuccoes and a canvas by Luca Giordano.
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8. Ammannati’s Courtyard
Mannerist architecture was a robust, oversized retake on the Renaissance. Bartolomeo Ammannati expounded this in dramatic, heavily rusticated Classical orders (1560–70).
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9. The Tuscan Maremma
On the second floor, the modern art museum’s masterpiece is a work (1850) by Giovanni Fattori. He was the greatest of the Macchaioli, a 19th-century Tuscan school with parallels to Impressionism.
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10. Grotta Grande
Mannerist cavern dripping with stylized stalactites, Giambologna statues and plaster casts of Michelangelo’s Slaves .
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