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Tuscany : Campo dei Miracoli, Pisa

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Campo dei Miracoli, Pisa

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  • Pisa’s ‘Field of Miracles’ is one of the most gorgeous squares in Italy, its green carpet of grass the setting for the Pisan-Romanesque gemstones of the Duomo, Baptistry, Camposanto and Campanile – that Italian icon better known as the Leaning Tower. The east end of the square is anchored by the old bishop’s palace, now home to the Duomo museum. Souvenir stalls cling like barnacles to the long south side of the square; a doorway between two of them opens into the Museo delle Sinopie, housing the giant preparatory sketches on plaster for the lost Camposanto frescoes.

    More on Other Pisan Sights
Top 10 Sights
  • 1. Leaning Tower

    This belltower in the Pisan-Romanesque style was begun in 1173 and started leaning when builders were only on the third level: the weight was too much for the alluvial sub-soil. By 1990, the tower was 4.5 m (15 ft) out of vertical, and it was closed until 2001 for engineers to reverse the tilt. Entrance is by guided tour only.

  • 2. Baptistry

    Italy’s largest Baptistry started life as a Romanesque piece (1153) but has a Gothic dome. The acoustically perfect interior houses a great Gothic pulpit.

  • 3. Baptistry Pulpit

    Niccola Pisano’s Gothic masterpiece (1255–60;) depicts religious scenes based on pagan reliefs decorating Camposanto sarcophagi.

  • 4. Duomo Façade

    A Pisan-Romanesque triumph of blind arcades, stacked open arcades and coloured marble decorations. Mannerist artist Giambologna cast the bronze doors to replace those destroyed by fire in 1595.

  • 5. Duomo’s San Ranieri Doors

    The architect Buscheto sculpted the only remaining Romanesque bronze doors of Pisa’s cathedral in 1180. He populated them with minimalist biblical scenes and swaying palm trees.

  • 6. Duomo Pulpit

    Niccola Pisano’s son, Giovanni, carved this in 1302–11. The Gothic naturalism of its tumultuous New Testament scenes probably reflects the influence of Giotto, who was a contemporary of the artist in Padua.

  • 7. Camposanto

    This former cemetery, containing recycled ancient Roman sarcophagi, once boasted frescoes to rival those in the Sistine Chapel. They were largely destroyed in World War II, but a few sections are preserved in a back room.

  • 8. Camposanto Triumph of Death Fresco

    This fresco by Buffamalcco is the best of those that survived the bombs of World War II. Its scene of Death riding across an apocalyptic landscape inspired Liszt to compose his Totentanz concerto.

  • 9. Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

    This rich collection includes an 11th-century Islamic bronze hippogriff (half horse, half griffin) – Crusade booty that once topped the cathedral dome. Good Leaning Tower views, too.

  • 10. Museo delle Sinopie

    In trying to salvage the Camposanto frescoes, restorers discovered earlier preparatory sketches. These offer a unique insight into the creative process of these medieval artists.

Practical Information
Il Canguro, Via Santa Maria 151, is a great sandwich shop: take your drink and panino back to the lawns of Campo dei Miracoli to picnic. The opening times of sites vary: check with the tourist office. The Duomo is closed on Sundays, but you can still see it if you attend mass. Tourist office: Via C. Cammeo 2 050 560 464 Campo dei Miracoli: 050 560 547; www.opapisa.it Duomo open Mon–Sat; admission charge €2 Baptistry open daily; €5 Camposanto open daily; €5 Museo del Duomo open daily; €5 Museo delle Sinopie currently closed Tower €15, other sites: €5 for one, €6 for two, €8 for three; €2 city walls
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