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Begin in Piazza SS Apostoli to see its namesake church (see Santissimi Apostoli) and the 2nd-century AD relief of an Imperial eagle against the portico’s right wall. Then continue straight across Via dell’Umilità and through the elaborate iron, glass, and frescoed 1880s pedestrian passage. Turn right on Via di Muratte to the Trevi Fountain . Your three coins tossed over your shoulder should ensure a return trip. Leave the square on Via di Lavoratore and turn left on Via di Panetteria for some of Rome’s best gelato at San Crispino .

Turn right up Via del Tritone and left on Via Francesco Crispi for the Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna to enjoy a rare glimpse in Rome of contemporary art . Walk down Via Capo le Case and right on Via Due Macelli into Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps (see The Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna). Spend as long as you like window-shopping along the grid of streets west of the piazza, but try to finish up by 5pm so you can work your way north, weaving between Via del Babuino and Via Margutta to see the art and antiques shops), to Piazza del Popolo.

Pause for a cappuccino at Caffè Canova , then cross to Santa Maria del Popolo , with its works by Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. Try to get to Santa Maria dei Miracoli and in Montesanto around 7pm to hear the Gregorian chant, before heading off for a special dinner at Dal Bolognese .

The most perfectly preserved of all ancient temples, this marvel of architectural engineering has a giant oculus forever open to the sky.

This tiny city-state is home to the Pope, the world’s greatest museum, largest church, and the most astounding work of art ever created – Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling.

Occupying papal palaces dating from the 13th century onwards, these galleries include the Graeco-Roman antiquities, the Etruscan Museum, four Raphael Rooms, the Collection of Modern Religious Art, the Sistine Chapel and the Picture Gallery (see Vatican City)

The belle époque home to this collection offers sculptures by Canova and an exhaustive view of 19th-century Italian and European painting. There is also an eclectic selection of modern works, including artists Rodin, Cézanne, Modigliani, Van Gogh, Monet, Klimt and Jackson Pollock.

Begun from a small donation to the city in 1883, this collection has grown to include examples of every major 19th- and 20th-century Italian artistic movement. Exhibitions include canvases by De Chirico, Morandi and Afro, as well as sculptures.

Rome’s largest green area, extending from the Gianicolo along the ancient Via Aurelia. It’s a terrific place for a run and offers a course of exercise posts. Its hills are adorned with villas, fountains, lakes and orangeries and are perfect for strolls; or enjoy a picnic under the umbrella pines.

This aristocratic family’s palace is filled with masterpieces by such painters as Raphael, Titian and Velázquez, whose portrait of the Pamphilj pope is famous for its psychological depth. This exhibit is fortunate to have a superb audio-guide, narrated by the present-day Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj (in English) that gives rare insight into the history of the collection.

Extensive, elegant and full of shady glades and beautiful fountains, this is a great park for a stroll, a picnic or a jog. You can also go boating on the artificial lake, rent a bicycle or in-line skates.

A tribute to the unbridled power of favoured papal nephews in the 1600s, this pleasure-palace, its priceless collections of art, and its newly restored gardens comprise one of the most gorgeous sights in Rome.