Vieux Nice
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Numerous foreign aristocrats and sundry rich and famous may have colonized other parts of the city, but Old Nice, just below the castle hill, belongs firmly to the Niçois, who claim it with Mediterranean gusto. Tiny streets throb with arm-waving commerce; Baroque architecture slots in among hanging washing, galleries, craft workshops and food stalls. The noise, aromas and colour recall the city’s long links with Italy – Nice became French as late as 1860. The atmosphere lasts well into the night in the many bars, restaurants and clubs.
For more on Nice (see Nice)
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1. Cours Saleya
The great square (or rather, oblong) bursts to life in the morning sun every Tuesday to Sunday with the world-famous flower market. Come evening, bar and restaurant terraces buzz. On Monday mornings the flower market is replaced by an antiques market. This is Old Nice’s focal point, colourful and vigorous.
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2. Palais Lascaris
From the façade to the grand staircase and 17th-century noble’s apartments beyond, the scale and decor of this Baroque palace is sumptuous.
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3. Chapelle de la Miséricorde
If you see only one of Nice’s Baroque churches, make sure it is this one. The splendour of the decoration makes it one of the world’s best examples of the style.
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4. Colline du Château
“Castle Hill” was the stronghold of Nice until medieval times. The castle was destroyed in 1706, but the hill boasts breathtaking views.
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5. Cathédrale Ste-Réparate
When the Dukes of Savoy ruled Nice they worshipped in this soaring, 17th-century church, beneath the majestic dome and within the extravagance of the stuccoed Baroque decor.
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6. Place St-François
This delightful square, overseen by an 18th-century clocktower and a Baroque palace, is the site of the daily fish and herb market, held around the dolphin fountain.
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7. Rue St-François-de-Paul
This busy thoroughfare is home to two Nice institutions: the Rococo Pâtisserie Auer at No. 7 and Alziari, olive and olive oil specialists, at No. 14.
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8. Quartier du Malonat
Daily life courses through the tiny streets and squares, and beneath the washing and trompe l’oeil house decorations in the most authentic sector of Vieux Nice.
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9. Rue Pairolière
Here, street commerce reaches its zenith. Food shops spill over with socca (pan-cakes), salt cod and spicy meats, jostling for space amid Provençal frocks and jewellery. It’s a bracing turmoil of aromas, colours and Niçois accents.
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10. Musée de la Marine, Tour Bellanda
French composer Hector Berlioz (1803–69) stayed here for a year in 1844. Now the tower, at the foot of the Colline du Château, houses an interesting maritime collection of weapons, model boats, instruments and paintings.
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I loved the French/Italian mix of Nice, it makes for a colourful character to a city that is already full of life. It is one of my top two favourite cities/towns in the Côte d'Azur. Old Nice also has a small albeit vibrant little outdoor market.
about 6 months ago
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