Aix-en-Provence
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Aix-en-Provence is a sophisticated town. Whether in the dignified squares and little streets of the Old Quarter or amid the town houses and tree-lined avenues of the 17th- and 18th-century district, the atmosphere is self-consciously graceful. But it’s also lively and fresh: fountains are ubiquitous, as are students at one of France’s oldest universities; the calendar of artistic events is rich; and the markets are the best in the region. The Romans called the town “Aquae Sextius”, which evolved into “Aix”, after the thermal springs which continue to flow here. From the 12th to 15th centuries, the town was capital of independent Provence and established itself as a cultural centre, a reputation further enhanced in the 19th century by local artist Paul Cézanne.
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1. Cours Mirabeau
Created in 1650, Aix’s majestic main avenue is a tunnel of greenery created by giant plane trees. In their shade stand elegant town houses and, on the northern side, smart, lively cafés. A succession of fountains adds freshness to the grandeur.
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2. Cathédrale St-Sauveur
The focal point of medieval Aix. Notable features are the octagonal, 5th-century baptistry, the 12th-century cloisters and a wonderful Buisson Ardent triptych painted in 1476 by Nicholas Froment.
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3. Musée Granet
Was built in 1671 as a priory by St Jean de Malte. Its exhibits include European art from the 16th to 19th centuries.
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4. Atelier Cézanne
Cézanne’s studio from 1901 until his death has been left as it was – a jumble of artist’s paraphernalia, furniture and still-life subjects.
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5. Rue Gaston-deSaporta
Running from the town hall to the cathedral, is the liveliest thoroughfare of the Old Town, throbbing with commerce.
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6. Quartier Mazarin
It was in this quiet district that the Aix nobility established some of their finest town houses in the 17th and 18th centuries. Within the tranquil sector of ornamental façades, small art galleries and charming antiques shops, the discreet, sober air of old money and aristocracy remains palpable.
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7. Aix Market
The vast and colourful Aix market colonizes all the town’s old squares on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings. From the Place de Verdun via the Place des Prêcheurs to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, the streets come alive with stalls selling fresh produce, clothes and antiques.
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8. Pavillon de Vendôme
Obliged to enter holy orders, local cardinal Louis de Mercoeur built this honey-stoned villa as a love-nest for his mistress in 1665. Its size, decorated façade and extensive gardens, however, suggest a rather open secret. It now houses a collection of 18th-century paintings.
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9. Mont Sainte-Victoire
To the east of Aix, this soaring mountain, 1,000 m (3,300 ft) high and 7 km (11 miles) across, exerts an almost mystical power over the region. Cézanne was so obsessed by its changing moods and intriguing shapes that he painted it more than 60 times. On the northern slopes is the Château de Vauvenargues, former home and burial place of artist Picasso (see Pablo Picasso).
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10. Fondation Vasarely
This intriguing centre is dedicated to Hungarian artist Victor Vasarely’s work on the integration of art into architecture. Behind the geometric façade are displays of weird dimensions and perspectives.
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