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Little Rome: A Morning in Arles
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Start the day with a visit to the largest and most striking Roman monument in Provence, Les Arènes . From the highest tier of seats you have a fine view of the historic centre and the Rhône. From here, walk across to the Théâtre Antique , for another glimpse of Roman Arles, then walk down the rue du Cloître to the place de la République, where water gushes from bronze masks at the foot of an obelisk, brought here from Egypt by the Romans.
On the east side of the square, visit the fine Romanesque Eglise St-Trophime (see Les Arènes), with its lovely sculpted pillars crowned by little figures of saints and martyrs. Follow the rue de l’Hôtel de Ville to Les Thermes de Constantin (see Thermes de Constantin), the remains of a palace built for a 4th-century AD Roman emperor. Then spend up to an hour in the Musée Réattu (rue du Grand-Prieuré open daily adm), with its fine collection of 18th–20th-century art, including works by Picasso.
Another great painter, Van Gogh, is associated with place du Forum, cluttered with cafés – one has been painted to look just as it was in his work Café la Nuit (see Le Café la Nuit, Arles). Stop in for coffee. End the morning at the Museon Arlaten (rue de la République open daily adm), where the largest folklore collection in Provence vividly recalls some of the region’s rich and fading traditions (see Provençal Legends).
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