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The hilltop fortress of the Přemyslids is home to the head of the Czech Republic. Spend a day exploring the castle’s many impressive palaces, churches, galleries and gardens.

Prague’s central square has been a market since the Middle Ages, and was witness to the rise and fall of numerous regimes and no shortage of bloodshed. The city has few charms finer than watching the moon rise between the towers of the Church of Our Lady Before Týn.

Linking the city across the River Vltava, it can be difficult to appreciate the beautiful carved statues of former citizens, due to the incessant crowds and trinket stalls. But it’s worth the effort.

The jumble of tombstones in this tiny graveyard give some indication of the number of bodies buried here. Prague’s Jewish community lived and worshipped in the surrounding ghetto.

A straightforward approach to cocktails, as the name suggests. The superior circulation system, which is a novelty in Prague, filters the ubiquitous cigarette smoke from the atmosphere. DJs play classic rock and Motown tracks and the kitchen serves small plates of snacks for the peckish until 3am.

It’s hard to believe now, but Prague had no bagels until American entrepreneurs opened this shop here in 1997, serving fresh-baked bagels, sandwiches and endless cups of coffee. Open late.

The Russian spirit of this eatery hits you like a shot of one their dizzying selection of vodkas. Sit down to blinis, borscht and other Eastern European soul food.

This Kampa Island café serves good beer and coffee at a fraction of the price found on the other side of the block.

With its threadbare furniture and oil lamps on every table, this café is made for rainy nights. In chilly weather, try their excellent mulled wine.

The “Little Pub on the Steps” seems strategically located to relieve exhausted tourists climbing Radnické schody. Inexpensive, and popular with the locals.

Bořivojova street boasts more pubs per metre than any other place in the country, and possibly the world. There’s nothing elegant about nad Viktorkou, but it’s the ultimate Prague pub.

Situated in a medieval cellar, this casual club specializes in “eintopf ” dishes such as beef strips with sour cream and apples.

Serving superior pastas and other Italian dishes for remarkably low prices, Kogo is wildly popular with discerning locals; book ahead. The service is marvellous.

Enjoy an espresso and croissant in the stylish bistro for a snack or sit down to a marvellous French dinner in the dining room proper.

Continental dining in a grotto beneath Strahov Monastery. As the name translates as “Hell”, perhaps the house speciality, “stuffed devil’s hoof”, is in order.

Part of the proceeds from the pub “At the Black Ox” go to help the nearby school for the blind. Watching the regulars knock back litre after litre of beer, you can see why.

Exactly what you might expect from the city that created the “Beer-Barrel Polka”. U Fleků is probably the city’s most popular beer hall, and the prices reflect it.

A great-value Czech beer hall since 1843, U Pinkasů is a very popular lunchtime destination. The food is simple but hearty, and the atmosphere lively.

Streets fill with carp sellers and hedonists drinking mulled wine.

The anniversary of the 1989 Velvet Revolution. Candles and flowers are placed in various locations.

Men give their women a gentle whipping with a willow switch. Ladies respond with eggs.

It’s easier to hobnob with the stars here than at Cannes or Berlin. Hundreds of partygoers fairly turn the sleepy west Bohemian spa town upside down for 10 days. Hundreds of screenings, too.

The day after Silvestr is quiet, after the New Year’s celebrations.

Across the street from Franz Kafka’s birthplace, with unobstructed views of St Nicholas and Týn churches, the Black Fox is the only hotel on Old Town Square. There are more graceful places to stay, but few as well situated. Only 12 rooms, so book early.

From the House at the Red Lion, guests can see either Prague Castle and Nerudova to the north or Petřín Hill to the south. The 17th-century painter Petr Brandl was born here. Guests will find it hard to leave room No. 32.

You can watch boats pass under Charles Bridge on the Čertovka canal from windows overlooking Prague’s “Little Venice”. Top floor rooms have views of the castle. Parking is some distance from the hotel.

Tucked into the heart of Malá Strana, the modern Sax is close to the Church of St Nicholas, the Church of Our Lady Victorious and Prague Castle. The 19 rooms and three suites surround a bright central atrium.

Adjoining Count Albrecht von Wallenstein’s palace on a quiet courtyard, this cosy hotel features nine apartments and four double rooms. The rooms are extremely homey and furnished with antiques and reproductions.

A palace historically known as the House at the Three Golden Chains has been converted into nine spacious apartments. Each has vaulted ceilings, wooden floors and Italian baths. The Old Town location can’t be beat.