Abbaye de Jumièges
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The hauntingly beautiful, bleached white ruins of this Benedictine abbey stand in a loop of the Seine. Founded by St Philibert in 654, following the donation of the estate to him by Queen Bathilde, wife of Clovis II, it was one of a number of abbeys built under the dukes of Normandy as the region turned to Christianity. Despite its chequered history (sacked by Vikings, it was rebuilt only to later be reduced to ruins and used as a quarry), it is a part of Normandy’s rich heritage and an important stop on the famous Abbey Route.
For more on the Abbey Route (see Northeastern Normandy)
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1. West Façade
1. West FaçadeStark and simple, the church of Notre-Dame’s impressive Romanesque façade was built around 1060, with a projecting porch flanked by two massive towers. Square at the base, octagonal above, they originally had wooden spires.
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2. Storeroom
Once a welcoming hall for important guests, the storeroom, Gothic in design, Romanesque in decoration, is intact but for its ribbed vaulting.
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3. Nave
3. NaveOnly the walls of Normandy’s tallest Romanesque nave still stand, left open to the skies after the demolition of the plaster vault that replaced the original, wood ceiling.
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4. Transept
The west wall is all that survives of the 11th-century transept. The transept crossing was topped by a lantern tower, to let in maximum light in poor weather.
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5. Choir
5. ChoirNothing remains of the earliest choir. The ruins are from a 13th-century Gothic version, comprising an ambulatory with seven radiating chapels. An ornate rood screen is decorated with basreliefs illustrating the passion of Christ.
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6. Charles VII’s Passage
This covered arcade, built in the early 1330s to link the two churches, predates Charles VII, but was named after a visit he made here with his mistress, Agnès Sorel, whose heart is buried under a marble slab in the north transept chapel.
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8. Chapterhouse
It was in this 11th- to 12th-century hall that a chapter from the rules of St Benedict was read out every morning, and monastic affairs were discussed. Between the 12th and mid-13th centuries, it became the abbots’ burial ground.
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9. Cloister
Today, the cloister is an expanse of grass with a yew tree at its centre, but it was once the heart of the abbey, used by monks for promenades, ceremonies, meditation and processions.
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10. Abbey Dwelling-house
10. Abbey Dwelling-houseThis imposing house was built for François de Harlay de Champvallon – a “commendatory” abbot appointed directly by the king.
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