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Normandy : Abbaye de Jumièges

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Abbaye de Jumièges

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  • The hauntingly beautiful, bleached white ruins of this Benedictine abbey stand in a loop of the Seine. Founded by St Philibert in 654, following the donation of the estate to him by Queen Bathilde, wife of Clovis II, it was one of a number of abbeys built under the dukes of Normandy as the region turned to Christianity. Despite its chequered history (sacked by Vikings, it was rebuilt only to later be reduced to ruins and used as a quarry), it is a part of Normandy’s rich heritage and an important stop on the famous Abbey Route.

    For more on the Abbey Route (see Northeastern Normandy)
Top 10 Features
  • West Façade 1. West Façade
    1. West Façade

    Stark and simple, the church of Notre-Dame’s impressive Romanesque façade was built around 1060, with a projecting porch flanked by two massive towers. Square at the base, octagonal above, they originally had wooden spires.

  • 2. Storeroom

    Once a welcoming hall for important guests, the storeroom, Gothic in design, Romanesque in decoration, is intact but for its ribbed vaulting.

  • Nave 3. Nave
    3. Nave

    Only the walls of Normandy’s tallest Romanesque nave still stand, left open to the skies after the demolition of the plaster vault that replaced the original, wood ceiling.

  • 4. Transept

    The west wall is all that survives of the 11th-century transept. The transept crossing was topped by a lantern tower, to let in maximum light in poor weather.

  • Choir 5. Choir
    5. Choir

    Nothing remains of the earliest choir. The ruins are from a 13th-century Gothic version, comprising an ambulatory with seven radiating chapels. An ornate rood screen is decorated with basreliefs illustrating the passion of Christ.

  • 6. Charles VII’s Passage

    This covered arcade, built in the early 1330s to link the two churches, predates Charles VII, but was named after a visit he made here with his mistress, Agnès Sorel, whose heart is buried under a marble slab in the north transept chapel.

  • Église St-Pierre 7. Église St-Pierre
    7. Église St-Pierre

    The façade and first two bays of the nave date from the 10th century; the chapel of St Martin contains signs of an even older oratory. The rest of the ruins date from the 13th and 14th centuries.

  • 8. Chapterhouse

    It was in this 11th- to 12th-century hall that a chapter from the rules of St Benedict was read out every morning, and monastic affairs were discussed. Between the 12th and mid-13th centuries, it became the abbots’ burial ground.

  • 9. Cloister

    Today, the cloister is an expanse of grass with a yew tree at its centre, but it was once the heart of the abbey, used by monks for promenades, ceremonies, meditation and processions.

  • Abbey Dwelling-house 10. Abbey Dwelling-house
    10. Abbey Dwelling-house

    This imposing house was built for François de Harlay de Champvallon – a “commendatory” abbot appointed directly by the king.

Practical Information
For convenience, try Auberge des Ruines (pl de la Mairie) opposite the abbey entrance; for setting, Auberge du Bac (2 rue Alphonse Callais). You can explore the magically illuminated abbey at night on one of the promenades nocturnes held on some Saturdays from April to September. Phone for details. 24 rue Guillaume-leConquérant, 76480 Jumièges 02 35 37 24 02 www.monum.fr Open mid-Apr–mid-Sep: 9:30am–7pm daily; midSep–mid-Apr and Easter weekend: 9:30am–1pm, 2:30–5:30pm. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov, 11 Nov, 25 Dec Admission: adults €4.60; 18- to 25-year-olds €2.50; children under 18 free. Oct–Apr: first Sun of the month free
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