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Normandy has many base de loisirs (leisure bases) by lakes and on rivers, where you can enjoy swimming and watersports. Many also offer tennis, golf, riding, archery and other facilities.
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At the now defunct Souleuvre railway viaduct (built in 1889 by Gustave Eiffel), apparently sane people choose to dive toward the ground secured only by an elastic rope around the ankles, or scoot across the valley at 60 mph (100 kph) in a harness suspended from a cable.
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Condé-sur-Vire is Normandy’s largest canoeing and kayaking resort; the Vire makes a perfect family outing (see Vallée de la Vire). Canoeing is also on offer at Pont d’Ouilly in the Suisse Normande, on the Eure near Pacy-sur-Eure, and at Saint-Saëns in the Pays de Bray.
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Built in Louis XIII style in 1632 (and restored after bombing in 1944), the château is notable for its “Rainbow Potager” (vegetable garden), a remarkable sight in summer. There is also a superb avenue of 300-year-old lime trees.
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Five terraces of formal gardens sweep gracefully from the château toward the focal point: an ornate wrought-iron gate bearing the initials of Brécy’s 17th-century owners. The gardens are thought to have been designed by François Mansart.
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The highlights of this 18th-century Anglo-French park, with its pretty, Italianate château, are the Chartreuses, a series of walled gardens brimming over with flowers. Statues, a temple and a Chinese pavilion add further interest.
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Each of these contemporary gardens is devoted to one of the five senses – sight, smell, sound, touch and taste. Set in a First Empire park, they include a maze, an orangery and over 2,500 plant species.
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Cycling is the best way to take in the glorious Norman countryside. Each département has marked cycle routes, with accompanying booklets available from tourist offices. In Manche, old railway lines and towpaths are being turned into cycle paths. The forests of Lyons and Brotonne and the Eure and Seine Valleys are all excellent cycling areas.
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Take the route submersible to see one of Cotentin’s unique natural havens, Havre de la Vanlée – but be warned, the road becomes heavily flooded during the dramatic spring tides.
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The marvellous diversity of Norman lakes and rivers makes freshwater fishing a rewarding and popular pastime. Sea fishing expeditions are organized from ports including Honfleur, Trouville, Dieppe and St-Valéry-en-Caux.
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