DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast : Paestum

Paestum

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Paestum enjoyed 1,000 years of prosperity, first as Greek Poseidonia, founded in the 7th century BC, then under the Lucanians, then the Romans. But the crumbling of the Roman Empire led to the gradual abandonment of the city and with that, the degradation of the fields, which turned into malaria-ridden swamps. No one dared come near the spot until the 18th century when Charles III was having a road built; trees were cut down, and there they were – three intact Greek temples. Much more was discovered in the 20th century.

Top 10 Sights

1. Walls

At its peak, the city was large and prosperous, as evidenced by its impressive 5 km (3 miles) of walls, set off with towers and gates at strategic points.
2. Basilica

2. Basilica

The oldest temple on the grounds, c. 530 BC, was most likely dedicated to two deities, Hera and Zeus.
3. Temple of “Neptune”

The last of the three temples to be built, in about 450 BC, is also the finest. It may have been dedicated to Neptune (Poseidon), but some scholars argue for Apollo, others for Zeus.
4. Amphitheatre

4. Amphitheatre

This Roman structure, dating from the 1st century BC or later, is only partially excavated, the rest lying under the 18th-century road, but some of the exposed part has been rebuilt. Its capacity was small – only about 2,000 – compared to others in the region.
5. Temple of “Ceres”

Votive offerings found here suggest that this small temple, further north than the other sites, was actually dedicated to Athena.
6. Museum

Finds from this excavation and several important ones nearby are exhibited here. One of those sites is the Sanctuary of Hera Argiva, built by the Greeks at the mouth of the River Sele in about 600 BC. There is also a collection of Roman finds upstairs.
7. Tomb Frescoes

Most famous of the exhibits in the museum are the tomb frescoes, discovered in 1968 about 1 km (0.5 mile) from Paestum. Virtually the only examples of ancient Greek painting to survive, they are full of light and bright colours. Themes include a banquet of male lovers.
8. Sculpture

Prime examples in this category of the museum include archaic metopes (decorative architectural elements) and one of two dancing girls from the Sanctuary of Hera Argiva, They are so well carved in bas-relief that each of the figures seems to be moving independently in space.
9. Pottery

Fine examples of Grecian urns are on view in the museum. These include a krater with red-figured painting on black, depicting a young satyr and a girl reluctant to succumb to his blandishments, and an amphora with black figures on red celebrating the fruit of the vine.
10. Artifacts

Other artifacts in the museum include a bronze vase that contained honey, amazingly still liquid at the time it was discovered due to unique atmospheric conditions below ground.

Practical Information

There are plenty of quick snacks and light meals available up and down the tourist strip. To see the temples at their most evocative, try to visit at dawn or at dusk. Via Magna Graecia (SS18) 0828 72 26 54 or 0828 81 10 23 Site: Open 9am–1 hr before sunset daily Museum: Open 8:45am–7pm daily (closed 1st & 3rd Mon of each month) Adm: €4.00 for site or museum, €6.50 for both