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Small profiteroles filled with cream, custard or chocolate.

The fun begins the weekend before Shrove Tuesday with fancy dress competitions, brass bands, and a procession followed by a spectacular show on Plaza Mayor. Ash Wednesday is marked by the “Burial of the Sardine”. The mock funeral procession leaves from the church of San Antonio de la Florida and ends with interment in the Casa del Campo.

The Christmas Fair on Plaza Mayor has more than 100 booths, selling cribs (belenes ), crib figures, trees and decorations. The official crib is housed outside the Casa de la Carnicería.

Rounding off the Christmas festivities is the Cabalgata de Reyes (procession of the kings). Floats parade along Calle Alcalá, through Puerta del Sol, ending in Plaza Mayor. The three kings are played by local politicians.

This major cultural festival promotes the arts with an ambitious programme of dance music, drama and film. Events are held in venues across the city.

The three days leading up to Easter are marked by solemn religious processions. On Holy Thursday the image of Jesus is carried through the city by penitents wearing the traditional purple hoods and chains around their feet. The following evening is the procession of Jesús de Medinacelli which leaves from the basílica of the same name before winding its way around the city centre.

Marzipan sweets sculpted to look like “saints’ bones”.

Very sweet brioches which are, rather strangely, eaten with hard-boiled eggs.

Each neighbourhood (barrio ) organizes its own celebrations to mark local red-letter days. These range from the blessing of pets in the church of San Antón, Calle Hortaleza (17 January) to Chinese New Year in Lavapiés (end of January, early February).

To be among the crowds on the Puerta del Sol on the most exciting night of the year is an unforgettable experience. On the stroke of midnight join the revellers in observing the custom of swallowing grapes, one after each chime. Bags of grapes and bottles of sparkling wine are sold from stalls nearby.