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In Vegas, hotels rise phoenix-like, not from the ashes but from demolition sites. Aladdin is the city’s most recent phoenix (the original opened in 1967). The whole is an Arabian fantasy of domes and minarets. Drawbacks are the somewhat confusing layout and the piped-in music that doesn’t quite fit the theme, but the guest rooms are luxurious – each complete with its own personal computer.

Façade of Aladdin

The most interesting shopping arcade in the city, Desert Passage is divided into areas: India Gate, the Lost City, Morocco Gate, and Merchants Harbor. The names are intriguing, and so are the shops. The architecture reflects the Arabian theme, and, for added drama, realistic thunderstorms crash into the “harbor” every half hour.

Styled after the legendary jazz club in New York’s East Village, the Blue Note in Las Vegas serves up contemporary jazz stars such as Spyro Gryra and the Dizzy Gillespie Alumni All-Stars, along with drinks and dinner.

The original Aladdin’s Theater for the Performing Arts was saved from the surrounding demolition and incorporated into the new design. The renovated, state-of-the-art venue now hosts Broadway shows and major concerts by top stars.

Like its New Orleans parent, Commander’s Palace Las Vegas is best known for its signature creole dishes such as turtle soup au sherry, and bread pudding soufflé. The decor recreates an Old South ambience with draperied and shuttered windows, ornate chandeliers, and potted palms.

At Josef’s, the decor is casual French country, with hand-painted murals and large, ornately framed mirrors. The menu features traditional dishes such as boudin blanc (pork and chicken sausage), quiche Lorraine, and leg of lamb. Grand meal finales include bananas foster and peach melba. The oyster bar, with seafood flown in daily, gets rave reviews.

In Desert Passage, Sur la Table is an outlet of one of America’s best houseware chains. More than 14,000 items are stocked in the excellent Las Vegas store. Specialty foods such as fondue mix, unusual marinades, and luxury chocolates are popular, along with cookbooks, top-brand utensils, and kitchen furniture.

Festively painted and decorated with flowers, rickshaws transport footsore shoppers along the cobbled and mosaic-paved streets of Desert Passage. You can hop on for free, but do tip – the service is provided by an independent company, and tips form the drivers’ only income.

Several of the shops and boutiques in Desert Passage are far more exotic than the usual Las Vegas fare, selling artifacts imported from Africa and beyond.

The decorative touches of Aladdin’s casino are as flamboyant as any in Las Vegas. The centerpiece is an enormous Aladdin’s Lamp, which dwarfs the players on the casino floor below.