O’ahu is the most populous of the Hawaiian islands, and its conjoined hubs are the city of Honolulu and the world-famous Waikīkī Beach. The vast majority of visitors make Waikīkī their base, venturing out on day trips to take in Honolulu’s many cultural attractions, Pearl Harbor, and other parts of the island. The family-friendly beaches and parks of the South hore and Kāne’ohe District are in striking distance of Honolulu, while diehard surfers head for the North Coast. The Polynesian Cultural Center is also an easy day trip from the city.
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Without question, the best evening dining on this side of the island. The East-West food is genuinely innovative and focuses on seasonality and the freshness of ingredients.
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As the name implies, this national chain offers a ’round the clock opportunity to work up a sweat. There are three clubs in Honolulu, one in Waikīkī, and four others dotted around O’ahu; most offer short-term passes.
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With an understanding for what Hawaiians like, this compact, ever-busy neighborhood bistro has specialties such as Hawaiian clay salt steak. They offer small plates, vegetarian options, and tasting menus, too.
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Tucked away on the bottom floor of an office building in homey Kaimukī, this always-busy bistro pleases locals and visitors with smart variations on beloved local themes – sashimi katsu -style, chocolate-filled won tons, steak in Hawaiian salt.
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Morning
Begin your itinerary by heading straight for Kailua, where you can stop off at Agnes Bakery for coffee and malassadas (Portuguese hole-less doughnuts fried up fresh and eaten hot).
Poke around the trio of antique shops clustered at Kailua Road and Hamakua Drive. If you’re feeling peckish, pick up a sandwich at Brent’s Deli (629A Kaha St), the only place resembling a true Jewish-style deli on the island.
Then it’s time to head for Kailua Beach or Lanikai for a beach afternoon.
Afternoon
You could opt for a lazy, sun-soaked afternoon. But if you fancy a little more activity, rent some form of watercraft from Bob Twogood Kayaks (262 5656) or Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (262 2555). Then, either paddle out to the Nā Mokulua (“the mokes”) off Kailua Beach or drive over to He’eia Kai Boat Harbor to check out the Ahu O Laka sandbar.
If you do plan to spend more time on the coast, consider reserving one of the luxurious rooms at the Turtle Bay Resort (57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku, 293 8811). You can putter your way from Kailua to Kahuku, leaving mid-afternoon and making one or two stops, and still arrive by check-in time. You won’t have to face the long drive back across the island, and you can dine in the extraordinary 21 Degrees North .
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Morning
Schools of spinner and bottlenose dolphins, and, from November to March, pods of humpback whales are readily seen just off the Wai’anae Coast. Several cruise companies offer dolphin-watching excursions Several cruise companies offer dolphin-watching excursions in various craft usually with small numbers of passengers. The excursions depart from Wai’anae Boat Harbor or Ko Olina Marina. Most offer transport from Waikīkī hotels, though you can choose to pick up the tour at the harbor. You will have to get up early, because the boats usually depart promptly at 7am.
Wild Side Specialty Tours (www.sailhawaii.com, 306 7273) offers a whale-and dolphin-watching cruise aboard a 42-foot catamaran. It is operated by marine researchers who believe that sail-powered vessels are less disruptive to the animals. The boat accommodates an intimate 4 to 15 passengers and the four-hour morning excursions include refreshments.
Ko Olina’s lagoons
Afternoon
For a Mediterranean-style lunch after your cruise, try Azul in Ko Olina (see Roy’s Ko Olina).
If you’re traveling with kids who want to emulate the dolphins, you can spend the rest of the day at Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park . Less energetic members of the party can relax in the café or lie in shallow water away from the screaming action.
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At low tide on a weekend, drive slowly on Kamehameha Highway just past He’eia Kea Boat Harbor. A little way offshore, you’ll see watercraft of every description clustered around seemingly nothing at all. In fact, just above sea level is a sandbar, and locals like to fetch up here, light the hibachi and hang out. Rent a canoe or kayak and join them.
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The most popular beach park in urban Honolulu offers 76 acres of activities, though most folks simply swim, wade and sunbathe on the man-made sandy beach. If you do swim here, you must take care, as the channel is deep and, at low tide, you don’t have to venture far to be caught in strong currents. Facilities onshore include food concessions, tennis courts, lifeguard towers, and softball fields.
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This area is popular for surfing because if offers a range of challenges from easy and slow Canoes to the more frisky Queen’s, Paradise, and Populars areas. Locals who work in Waikīkī hit the waves before and after work.
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This reasonably priced hotel houses four restaurants and a fitness center. You don’t even have to go outside to get to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Center.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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