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The Peak Tram empties into this ugly anvil-shaped mall containing shops, cafés, restaurants and viewing gallery. The refreshment and tourist trinkets inside don’t inspire, but children may enjoy the fantastical motion simulator Peak Explorer ride or Madame Tussaud’s waxworks.

Although the imposing Peak Tower mall is hardly sensitive to its grand setting there is a good range of places to eat and drink inside its Galleria, with great views down onto city and harbour, and across to Lamma Island.

The new incarnation of this much-loved, up-market drinking and dining favourite retains a lovely garden terrace, great food and friendly ambience.

These usually quiet (although pavement-free) roads are worth wandering for a peep at some of the Peak’s pricier properties, including 23 Severn Road {No. 6 below}. Most have amazing harbour views. But dream on. You would have to be a millionaire just to afford a two-bedroom flat here.

For a gentle half-hour ramble, head down Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road, then catch a bus back into town.

In 1997 an offer of HK$900m for the newly built property at 23 Severn Road was incredibly refused. Weeks later, prices crashed, and by 2001 the house was valued at a “mere” third of the price.

The steep struggle up Mount Austin Road or the longer route along the Governor’s Walk to these well-tended gardens is worth the effort. The viewing platform faces Lamma Island.

The old footpath up to the Peak before the Peak Tram arrived is pleasant and shaded. But the traffic can be busy at the bottom of Peak Road so it’s best to detour onto Tregunter Path near the bottom.

The summit itself is fenced off and covered by telecom masts, but the views from the edges of Victoria Peak Garden are excellent.

The effortless way to see most of the best views on offer from the Peak is on the shaded, well-paved, 2-mile (3-km) circular walk along Lugard Road and Harlech Road. It also makes a terrific jogging track with a view.