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The only year-round way of getting to Crete is to fly to Athens and take a connecting flight to Irakleio, Chania or Rethymno. There are flights to Athens from all EU capitals and from major cities in North America, South Africa and Australia. Domestic airlines compete on routes, and flights are frequent.

Charter airlines owned by large package holiday companies fly to Chania and Irakleio from most airports in the UK and large mainland EU cities in summer. The first departures are in late April or early May, with the last return flight in early October. Most flights are sold as a package with accommodation and car rental.

Fast ferries sail overnight, every night, between Piraeus, the port of Athens, and Chania, Irakleio and Rethymno on Crete. Another popular option is to island-hop, staying for a few nights on one or more of the Cyclades.

There are local and international car rental companies at every airport, resort and major town in Crete. Renting on the spot is often more expensive than booking in advance with a major firm. Drive defensively and cautiously at all times – Greece has one of the worst accident rates in Europe.

Local buses operated by the KTEL consortium are a cheap and cheerful way to see Crete and meet local people. Tickets are cheap and there are regular departures even to remote villages. English language timetables are usually available from local tourist offices.

Taxis are surprisingly affordable, and operate not only in towns but on long journeys between towns and villages. Short journeys are metered, but for longer trips there is usually a fixed price – agree it before setting off. Most drivers speak some English, and vehicles are usually modern Mercedes saloons.

The only way to travel between Sougia and Chora Sfakion on the south coast is by boat. In summer, small boats putter along at least once a day, calling at Agia Roumeli and Loutro.

Mule or pony trekking is a great way to explore the awesome mountain scenery of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), where there are still no motor roads.

Away from the north coast and its busy highway, there are hundreds of miles of farm tracks and jeep roads which are ideal mountain-biking territory. Cycling is best enjoyed in spring (April–May) and autumn (late September–October).

December, January and February are cold, wet and windy with heavy snow on the mountains. Spring flowers begin to appear in March, but sunbathing is not a real option until April, and rain is possible until May. Temperatures start to climb seriously in June, peaking at 35°C or higher in July. October can be beautiful, with sunny days and cool nights, and even November can be a good month for sightseeing, though not for the beach.

UK visitors require a passport; most other EU nationals require only a valid identity card. Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not require visas for a stay of up to 90 days.

Visitors from other EU countries are not subject to customs formalities. Unauthorized export of antiquities and works of art is a serious offence. If bringing prescription drugs with you, also bring a copy of the prescription and, if possible, a letter from your doctor to say why you need them.

The Greek National Tourism Organisation, also known as the Hellenic Tourist Organisation and referred to by its Greek acronym, EOT, has offices in all European capitals, major US cities, and in Australia and South Africa.

EOT has offices in Irakleio, Chania and Rethymno. There are also local tourist offices in the major resorts. All have English-speaking staff who can provide maps, bus timetables, and lists of places to stay and things to see. Most will also help you to find accommodation.

Opening hours on Crete are erratic. Use the times given in this book as a rough guide only. Most state-run museums and archaeological sites are open around 8:30am–3pm and close on Mondays. Some may reopen or stay open to 7 or 8pm in summer. Monasteries, convents and churches are generally open during daylight hours but close for two to three hours in the afternoon. Some smaller churches may be locked: the key is usually held in the nearest village shop or kafeneion .

Speaking even a few words of the language often works wonders in establishing a rapport with Cretans. Modest clothing (long trousers for men, over-the-knee skirts for women) is required when visiting monasteries and churches. Topless sunbathing is generally tolerated, but nude bathing is officially restricted to designated beaches.

Greece uses the standard European 220V/50Hz AC electrical supply. Plugs have two round pins, or three round pins for earthed appliances.

A sun-hat and sunglasses are essential. In spring and autumn, a light wool sweater or fleece and a light windproof and waterproof jacket are useful. Good walking boots are a must for serious hiking.

Never underestimate the burning power of the Cretan sun, which can be punishing as early as April. Use a high-factor sunscreen or sunblock, especially on boat trips, when the sea breeze can make it seem deceptively cool, and take to the shade from midday until late afternoon.

Heatstroke is another risk in high summer. Do not attempt strenuous hiking or mountain riding in July or August, drink plenty of water and wear a hat. Symptoms can be aggravated by alcohol – drink an exra half litre of water for each unit of alcohol you consume.

A night-time pest in many parts of Crete, mosquitoes breed in ponds, streams and cisterns. Out of doors, they can be kept away by deterrents containing diethyltoluamide (“deet”) or the organic citronella oil. Indoors, use an electrical deterrent pad, sold in shops all over Crete.

Spiky black sea urchins infest most rocky beaches and can inflict a painful wound if stepped on in bare feet. Watch where you walk in shallow water. The spines, which snap off in the wound, can be pulled out with tweezers.

Jellyfish, called tsouchtres in Greek, occasionally infest Cretan beaches. Most are harmless but some can inflict a painful sting. Rinsing with vinegar or a mild ammonia solution is an effective remedy, and an antihistamine tablet and cream will also reduce inflammation.

Crete has numerous snakes, most of which are completely harmless and none of which have a lethal bite (though the adder, rarely seen sunbathing on sunny rocks in the mountains, has a venomous bite). Most Greek villagers will kill any snake, venomous or not, on sight, and all Cretan snakes will flee when humans approach.

Many visitors with no previous experience of riding a motorbike or scooter rent a cheap and cheerful two-wheeler, and each year brings its crop of accidents. Riding in Crete is risky, even for experienced bikers. The inexperienced should stick to four wheels. If you must rent a bike, wear a helmet at all times. Wear long trousers and a jacket, which give you a bit more protection than shorts and T-shirt if you do take a tumble.

The native male kamaki (“harpooner”) is a summer phenomenon. These amateur gigolos are convinced that female visitors are intent on an authentic Greek holiday romance, and are more than happy to supply it. Most will take a firm “no” for an answer.

These large, red and black cousins of the wasp inflict a very painful sting and should not be handled or provoked. They are often seen hovering around pools of water or drinking fountains, but will not attack if left alone.

The ancient palace sites and ruined cities of Minoan and Hellenistic Crete can be confusing without a guide. Escorted tours featuring in-depth exploration of Knosos and other sites, with guest experts and slide shows, are offered by several companies.

The best times to seek out Crete’s people-shy animals are spring and autumn, when specialist eco-tourism operators offer wildlife and walking holidays in Sfakia and the Mt Idi range.

Crete’s highest mountains offer some of Europe’s most inspiring wilderness walking, but can be lethal to inexperienced or lone walkers. Small group treks led by experienced guides can be safer.

Pony or mule-riding expeditions through the Cretan countryside and into the Lefka Ori are a new development.

A number of specialist companies offer accompanied cycling holidays in Crete, usually in spring and autumn, when it’s not too hot for comfort, with most of your luggage travelling ahead of you by minibus each day and back-up transport available if the going gets too tough.

Spring is the most popular time for painting holidays in Crete, when the clear light and multicoloured blaze of wild flowers provide inspirational subject matter. Some painting holidays can be combined with tours of archaeological sites and wildlife areas.

Cretans are justifiably proud of their rich, living heritage of traditional music and dance, and eager to share it with visitors. A growing number of holidays, usually with accommodation in village homes, enable you to learn some of the complicated dances.

The strong summer breezes which spring up most afternoons make Cretan coasts ideal for windsurfing. Most major tour operators offer packages with windsurfing coaching at major resorts such as Georgioupoli and Chersonisos.

Scuba diving is another burgeoning pastime in Crete. Many wrecks lie in shallow waters not far offshore, and visibility is excellent. Most ancient shipwrecks are off-limits to divers, but there are plenty of wartime wrecks to explore.

The old-fashioned kafeneion is a hub of village and town life, where local men gather to play backgammon and talk politics. They usually serve only Greek coffee, frappé (iced coffee), ouzo and raki , Greek brandy, bottled beer and a limited range of soft drinks.

These are the Greek equivalent of the Spanish tapas bar, serving ouzo , wine, beer and a range of snacks (meze) to accompany your drink. In a mezedopoleion you can order a complete meal of a dozen tiny dishes.

The zacharoplasteion (patisserie) is evidence of the Greek love of all things sweet. You will find honeysoaked baclava and an array of pastries stuffed with raisins and nuts and powdered with sugar and cinnamon, cream-filled pies and chocolate gateaux. The zacharoplasteion also serves coffee and sometimes a range of liqueurs and spirits.

The psarotaverna (fish tavern) serves every imaginable kind of seafood, from tiny whitebait to whole sea bass, shrimp, octopus, squid, langouste and less familiar delicacies, including sea urchins. Fish is officially classed category “A” (the most expensive) through “E” and is priced by weight.

The psitesteatoreon or grill restaurant is a carnivore’s delight and a vegetarian’s nightmare. The typical menu comprises chicken, lamb and pork, spit-grilled and served with chips and salad. Less familiar dishes include kokoretsi (liver and other offal wrapped in intestines and grilled) and sheep’s head.

The ubiquitous giros (pronounced “hero”) is Greece’s own greasy and delicious fast food – slivers of veal, pressed into a vertical cylinder and cooked on a revolving grill, shaved off and served in flat pitta bread with onions, tomatoes, yoghurt and a dash of cayenne pepper. Giros stands are strategically located in most towns and larger villages.

Neon-lit, gleaming new café-bars cater to holiday crowds in main resorts and to younger Greeks in towns such as Irakleio, Chania and Rethymno. They serve expensive imported lagers, iced coffee, soft drinks and disturbingly powerful cocktails, usually based on locally made vodka, tequila, rum or gin.

Tsikoudia , or raki , is Crete’s fiery traditional tipple, and is served neat in tiny glasses, sometimes first thing in the morning with coffee. Cretans rarely drink more than one at a sitting; nor should you. Wines include pine resinflavoured retsina (sold straight from the barrel or in 500 ml bottles) and drinkable red and white wines from Crete and elsewhere in Greece (see Top 10 Cretan Wines).

Lager beers including Amstel and Heineken are brewed under licence in Greece and sold in 500 ml bottles. Local brands including Mythos and Fix (the first beer brewed in Greece, introduced by a Bavarian brewer in the 1840s), also in 500 ml bottles. Café1-bars also serve imported brands including Budweiser and Beck’s. Bottled Newcastle Brown Ale, Guinness and British keg lagers on draft are served in some holiday resorts.

Cretan markets are busiest and best early in the morning, opening at about 7:30am Monday to Saturday, and busiest of all on Saturday mornings. Markets, and all other shops, close around midday, reopening around 5pm and staying open until at least 8pm. In resort areas, many shops are open until around 11pm in summer.

Non-EU residents can reclaim Value Added Tax (VAT) on most goods by presenting the relevant receipt at Customs on departure. Non-EU travellers can also buy wines, spirits, tobacco, perfumes and other goods in duty-free shops at Chania and Irakleio airports.

Bargaining over prices is not common practice in Crete, and most ticket prices are fairly firmly fixed. That said, it never hurts to ask for the best possible price, especially in art and craft shops. Prices are often notably cheaper at the very end of the holiday season, when custom is on the wane.

Most traders and shop owners (as well as restaurant and small hotel owners) prefer cash to credit cards, and usually pass on to you the percentage charged by the credit card company, which can be as much as 5 per cent.

Aided by modern wine-making techniques, Greek wines are coming into their own, and the vineyards of Crete are no exception. The Boutari wines are among the best, and you can buy quality wines to take home in most towns and at airports.

Crete is famous for the healing and cleansing properties of its wild mountain herbs, which are gathered, dried and exported in bulk all over Greece. Take home a big bag of sage, oregano, thyme or basil, sold loose or in packages in the markets of Chania, Rethymno and Irakleio.

Olives and olive oil have been staples of the Greek diet since ancient times, and the olive groves of Crete produce some of the best. Cold pressed virgin olive oil is the key ingredient of many dishes, and quality oil (you really can taste the difference) is much cheaper in Crete than at home.

Pottery-making is a living skill on Crete: look out for prettily coloured, modern bowls, plates and cups, simple oldfashioned peasant earthenware, or copies of elaborately decorated Minoan, Classical or Hellenistic ceramics.

Unique to Crete is the curly wooden stick carved from prinos wood, which is the mountain shepherd’s versatile tool, used to carry burdens, discipline dogs and encourage stubborn mules. They make handsome wall decorations. You may also find attractive bowls and platters turned from hard, close-grained olive wood.

The cost of living rockets from mid-June to early September. Accommodation, air fares to Crete, and car and scooter rental are lower in spring and autumn. The best time of all for a budget visit is early October, when the sea is warm and there is still plenty of sun but few visitors.

Flying to Athens, then travelling on to Crete by ferry can be cheaper than flying direct to Crete. At least four scheduled airlines fly daily to Athens from London alone, and there are also charter flights in summer, so fares are competitive. If coming from outside Europe, look for a cheap fare to London and a connecting flight to Athens or Crete.

The longer you intend to stay in one place, the cheaper your room will be. Pensions and hotels usually offer a 10 per cent discount for three nights or more, and you may get an even better rate if staying for several weeks. Most museums and archaeological sites offer cheap admission for students and school pupils.

There are youth hostels in Irakleio, Chersonisos, Rethymno, Siteia and Plakias, with dormitory beds (for around one-third the cost of a cheap room) and basic kitchen facilities.

Camping can save you some money, with most campsites charging around half the cost of a budget room for a tent and two people. On the downside, few campsites are easy to get to using public transport, and camping means carrying a tent.

Finding casual work picking fruit or olives is less easy than it was, as migrants from Albania and other eastern European countries provide a supply of cheap labour. Bar and restaurant work in resorts is very poorly paid (most earnings are from tips), with very long hours. If you have a degree in English you may find work teaching in a private language school. In theory, EU citizens do not need work permits.

Hitching can be a good way of getting around the island (especially to out-of-theway spots), and Cretans themselves frequently hitch-hike. Off the beaten track, where there is little traffic, you may have to wait for hours in hot sun.

Giros stands (see Giros (Kebab) Stands) offer the cheapest tasty hot meals in Crete. Markets are piled with inexpensive fruit in summer, and if you stick to picnicking on fruit, olives, cheese and freshbaked bread (the healthy diet of the Cretan villager), you can live on surprisingly little. In restaurants, Greek salad (onions, cucumber, tomatoes, olives and a slab of feta cheese, drowned in oil) is a cheap meal in its own right. Fish is always the most expensive dish on any menu, and chicken and squid are usually the cheapest.

A half-litre bottle of beer or a half-litre of wine in an old-fashioned local café is usually half the price of a smaller beer or a fancy cocktail in a smart café-bar. Admission to most discos and clubs in resorts is free, but drinks are expensive. Make the most of half-price happy hour in lively resorts like Chersonisos and Malia.

All hotels in Crete welcome children. Most major holiday companies now feature hotels which are especially familyfriendly, with facilities such as baby-sitting and activity clubs. Larger hotels used by major European holiday companies often have some rooms specifically designed for wheelchair users and for people with other disabilities.

Small self-catering complexes are a popular family choice. Villas with pools can be ideal for families. On the down side, most villas on Crete are some distance from the beach.

Some package holiday hotels offer a range of supervised activities for younger children. Crete also has a couple of aqua-parks, with wave pools and waterslides, close to main resorts. Older children can enjoy pedalos, sea canoes, and windsurfing at resorts.

Children may find some Greek restaurant dishes (like fish with the head still attached) intimidating. Western-style dishes, such as spaghetti, hamburgers and chips are served in all resorts.

Familiar brands of baby milk, baby food and nappies for infants are available at mini-markets in the resorts, or the local geniko emporion (general store) or pharmacy.

Children should wear sunblock and a hat on the beach as there is a risk of severe sunburn even as early as April. Warn children to look out for spiny black sea urchins. There are no lifeguards.

Rental cars are fitted with safety belts, but child seats may not be available. For short journeys use taxis rather than slow and crowded local buses. There are no disabled facilities at bus stations, but collapsible wheelchairs may be carried in the luggage compartment of longdistance buses.

Unfortunately, there is not even direct wheelchair access between terminals and aircraft at Irakleio, Chania or Rethymno airports. Wheelchair users may even find it easier to fly to Athens and travel to Crete by ferry.

Few visitor attractions or museums are fully accessible to wheelchair users, but some have ramps from street level and lifts to upper storeys. Most archaeological sites in Crete are on steep and rugged sites, with rough paths or steps and few, if any, ramps.

English is spoken more or less fluently by virtually all Cretans working in hotels, guesthouses and other tourist-related industries, and in most bars and restaurants. However, learning a few words of Greek, even if only those for “hello” (yiassou or kalimera) , “please” (parakalo) and “thank you” (efkaristo) , will be much appreciated.

Like most EU member states, Greece adopted the euro in 2002. Change money or travellers’ cheques at banks in larger towns and villages, at post offices displaying a yellow “Exchange” sign, and at travel agencies and some hotels in holiday resorts. Always take your passport when changing money. Banks are normally open 8am–2pm Monday to Thursday, 8am–1:30pm Friday.

Credit cards are widely accepted in larger hotels, more expensive shops and in some tourist restaurants, but cash is preferred in most stores, guesthouses and tavernas. Some establishments charge an additional 4–5 per cent for credit card use. You can also use your credit or debit card to withdraw euros from ATMs in all larger towns and at airports.

Phones are plentiful and efficient, with separate booths for local and international calls. International booths are prominently marked, and there are multi-lingual instructions in all phone boxes. Most use a prepaid phone card, available from most general stores and street kiosks, and this is the cheapest way of calling home. You can also use metered phones in local offices of OTE, the Greek telecommunications organization.

Mobiles are widely used in Greece, and European cellphone users should experience no problems in using their phones in Crete. However, coverage may be patchy in some mountain areas and in deep valleys such as the Samaria Gorge. Some US and Canadian mobile phones systems may not yet be fully compatible with Greek networks.

The post office (taxidromeion) is indicated by a round yellow sign and is usually open 7:30am–2pm Monday to Friday. Some post offices also exchange money and traveller’s cheques.

Faxes can be sent from OTE offices and, in holiday resorts, from travel agencies and some hotels. You can also arrange for mail to be held for you at any post office. Letters should be clearly marked “Poste Restante”. You will need proof of identity to collect your mail.

Email is by far the cheapest and easiest way to stay in touch and there are internet cafés in all main towns and most resorts.

The BBC World Service can be received on 9.41, 15.07 and 12.09 Mhz shortwave. Most hotels in C category (3-star) and above have satellite TV receiving Sky and CNN. Voice of America Englishlanguage broadcasts also come through clearly.

The EKPIZO organization helps tourists who encounter problems with hotels, campsites, car rental and tour companies while in Crete.

You should take out comprehensive travel insurance covering you for private medical treatment and for evacuation if necessary, as well as for loss or theft of belongings and expenses incurred due to delayed or cancelled flights. Make sure your policy will pay for medical and hospital fees direct and that it covers you for holiday activities such as trekking, scuba diving, riding, and motorcycling, as well as for personal liability in the event of damage to rented cars or motorcycles.

Sunburn and heat exhaustion and mosquito bites are easily prevented (see Things to Avoid). A basic medical kit should include painkillers, anti-histamine tablets and cream for bites and stings, a diarrhoea remedy, and motion sickness tablets for boat or bus journeys.

Hornets, scorpions, tarantulas and vipers all exist in Crete but are not dangerous unless handled. Their bites and stings are painful but not normally lethal to adults, though medical attention should be sought if small children are bitten.

Set up a warning triangle if possible – your hire car should be equipped with one. If anyone is injured, passers-by are required to stop and help, and you must contact the police. If involved in a collision, never admit liability, sign any statement of responsibility, or lose your temper. Contact your travel insurance company as soon as possible.

There are private medical clinics in all the main towns. Many doctors speak good English. Consultations must be paid for in cash.

Dentists are proficient and can be found in major towns including Irakleio, Chania, Rethymno, Agios Nikolaos, Siteia and Ierapetra. You must pay for your treatment in cash.

Greek public hospitals leave much to be desired, but private hospitals and clinics are as good as any in the world. Make sure your insurance covers private treatment.

Greek pharmacists are highly qualified, provide comprehensive advice on minor ailments and injuries, and can dispense a wide range of remedies including antibiotics, anti-inflammatories and painkillers. Most speak good English. Pharmacies (farmakia) are marked by a green cross sign.