Mérida
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The most languidly tropical of Mexico’s colonial cities, Mérida is a town of whitewashed façades, Moorish-style Spanish houses with deliciously shady, palm-filled patios, tall and plain 17th-century churches, and an unhurried street life. It is also at the center of the Yucatán’s distinctive culture, making it the best place to see and shop for traditional crafts and souvenirs.
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1. Plaza Mayor
1. Plaza MayorThis spacious square was the heart of the Mayan city of Ti’ho, and so was taken as the hub of the new city by Conquistador Francisco Montejo when he founded Mérida in 1542. The square is still surrounded by the city’s main public buildings, while its colonnades and benches under a canopy of giant laurel trees provide favorite meeting places.
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2. Cathedral
2. CathedralBuilt between 1562 and 1598, this is the oldest cathedral on the American mainland (in the entire continent, only Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic is older). Massive and monumental, it was built in the sober style of the Spanish Renaissance, with a soaring façade and few decorative flourishes.
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3. Palacio del Gobernador
3. Palacio del GobernadorNeighboring the Cathedral, the elegant seat of the Yucatán state government was built in 1892 to replace a Spanish governors’ palace. Its patios, open to the public, are decorated with striking murals by Fernando Castro Pacheco.
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4. Casa de Montejo
The astonishing portico of the first Spanish stone house completed in Mérida, built for the Montejos themselves in 1549, bears a very graphic celebration of the Conquest. The rest of the house has since been rebuilt and is now a bank.
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5. Calle 60
5. Calle 60Mérida’s main drag for strolling and souvenir shopping, running from Plaza Mayor through Parque Hidalgo, another fine square with a clutch of cafés and restaurants.
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6. Iglesia de Jesús
The Jesuits built this church in 1618, favoring ornamentation and a little flair over the plain style of the Franciscans, who built most of the town’s other religious buildings.
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7. Parque Santa Lucía
7. Parque Santa LucíaThe arcaded square of Santa Lucía, dating in part from 1575, is the most romantic of all Mérida’s old squares. Free concerts of traditional music take place every Thursday (see Serenatas Yucatecas, Mérida).
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8. Market
Shopping hub of the Yucatán, Mérida’s market is a huge bazaar. Stalls are piled high with chilis, fabulous fruit and other food, hammocks, sandals, panama hats, and embroidery (see Places to Shop).
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9. Paseo de Montejo
9. Paseo de MontejoLaid out in the Yucatán’s early 1900s boom in imitation of Parisian boulevards, Paseo de Montejo is lined with lavish mansions, some using fabulous iconography, such as this eagle-and-snake motif.
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10. Museo de Antropología
The grandest of all the Paseo Montejo mansions, built for General Francisco Cantón between 1909 and 1911, houses one of Mexico’s most important archeological museums. It has many treasures excavated from sites all across the Yucatán, and is especially rich in ceramics and jade. Its displays provide an overview of the Mayan world that illuminates visits to the ruins themselves.
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This past winter and for the first time in my life I visited the Yucatan Peninsula and Merida. In this colonial Spanish city one can easily feel romantic, relaxed and welcomed. Merida, the state capital of Yucatan has many pocket parks and plazas where locals sit to take short breaks during the day. Walking down the narrow streets, I felt protected and amazed by tall adorned facades that speak of a bygone aristocratic era. At night the city awakes from its warm afternoons, a cool breeze sets in and soft guitar-trio music fills the air of outdoor cafes. Galleries show local as well as foreign artistic talents and Teatro goers line up to enjoy the newest productions in town. While in this fantastic city, I had the fortune of staying at a petite hotel called Hotel Julamis, located at 3 blocks from Main Street. At this hotel/B&B I felt I was living in my own house. The owners make you feel like a family member who just returned from a long trip. The courtyard boasts a lush garden where breakfast is served every morning. My room had the most incredible floors, original to the house, the mattress was new and the bathroom was large by hotel standards. “It is a place where guests always return” says Nina Cowan a Canadian visitor who spends her winters at Julamis since it opened its doors. This was a vacation full of peace and learning something I’ve never experienced before in my long explorer life.
about a year ago
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