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Lynn's Barcelona guide
Originally conceived as a suburban estate to the north of the city, Parc Güell is like a surreal, Asian terraced farm. Twisting pathways and avenues of columned arches blend in with the hillside, playfully fusing nature and fantasy. The esplanade, with its stunning, curved, mosaic bench, is the park’s centrepiece. From here there are spectacular views Walks & Bike Rides of the entire city and of the fairy-tale gatehouses below. Gaudí’s former home is now the Casa-Museu Gaudí. (Parc Güell).
Dating from around 1040, this cathedral is one of the most elegant in Catalonia.
Ironwork, ceramics, sculpture and stained glass come together here in a synthesis of the decorative and fine arts. The interior of this house, by Domènech i Montaner, has some superb sculptures by Eusebi Arnau and some of the finest Modernista furniture in existence.
Barcelona’s magnificent Gothic cathedral boasts an eye-catching façade and a peaceful cloister. (Barcelona Cathedral).
At weekends, amateur opera singers perform on this medieval street, home to the Casa de l’Ardiaca Casa de L’Ardiaca, which has a ravishing little patio.
Sunlight filters through tall trees in this hidden oasis of calm. The plaça is home to the Museu del Calçat (Top 10 Quirky Museums).
In the heart of the Barri Gòtic is the beautifully preserved, medieval Plaça del Rei (Perfect Squares), presided over by the 13th- to 14th-century Palau Reial (royal palace). The impressive palace complex includes the Saló del Tinell, a massive hall crowned by Gothic arches, where Ferdinand and Isabel welcomed Columbus after his 1492 voyage to the Americas. The medieval Capella de Santa Àgata has a beautiful 15th-century altarpiece by Jaume Huguet. A visit to the Museu d`Història de la Ciutat gives access to the Palau Reial and to one of the largest underground excavations of Roman ruins on display in Europe.
From Plaça de Catalunya, stroll the length of Barcelona’s most famous street, La Rambla (La Rambla), stopping en route to enjoy the street performances. Turn left at the port and admire the luxury yachts as you follow the water round to Barceloneta. Continue along Pg Joan de Borbó and turn left down any of the side streets that lead to the sand and sea.
Wandering this network of atmospheric, ancient streets is the best way to experience the old town. Take a short stretch of the busy C/Portaferrisa (Best Shopping Areas) from La Rambla and turn right down tiny C/Petritxol (Best of the Rest), with its confectionery shops and jewellers, to the Església de Santa Maria del Pi. Continue down C/Rauric, left onto C/Ferran and up to Plaça de Sant Jaume (Plaça de Sant Jaume). Turn left onto C/Bisbe leading to Plaça de la Seu and the Cathedral (Barcelona Cathedral).
Housed in the 15th-century Palau Castanyer, this enormous shop stocks posters, photos, oil paintings, souvenirs and prints of works by well-known Spanish artists.
Opened in 1978, Barcelona’s first fashion mall, Bulevard Rosa, is still one of its classiest, with over 100 shops showcasing clothes, shoes and accessories by Spanish and international designers. The adjoining Bulevard dels Antiquaris is a spacious mall, with over 60 antiques and arts shops.
Morning
To get to the Fundació Joan Miró (Fundació Joan Miró) before the crowds and with energy to spare, hop on the funicular from Paral·lel metro station. From here it is a short walk to the museum, where you’ll need an hour and a half to absorb the impressive collection of Miró paintings, sketches and sculptures. When you’ve had your fill of contemporary art, refuel with a cafè amb llet (Top 10 Café Drinks) on the restaurant terrace before backtracking along Av de Miramar and jumping on the cable car up to Castell de Montjuïc (Castell de Montjuïc & Museu Militar). Wander the castle gardens and look out over the city and the bustling docks. Return to Av de Miramar by cable car and follow the signs to the Palau Nacional (Palau Nacional & Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya), where you can lunch on typical Catalan cuisine with a modern twist in the grandiose Oval Room (Restaurants, Cafés, Bars & Clubs).
Afternoon
Afterwards, spend an hour perusing the MNAC ’s (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya) extraordinary Romanesque art collection. When you exit, turn right and then follow the signs to the Olympic complex. The Estadi Olímpic is worth a look, but the silver-domed Palau Sant Jordi steals the limelight. Nearby, at Bernat Picornell, spend the late afternoon cooling down with a dip in the fantastic open-air pool. If it’s summer, there may even be a film showing. From here it is just a short stroll to the Poble Espanyol where you can settle in at a terrace bar in Plaça de Mayor and sip a cuba libre as night descends.
Morning
Begin your port passeig (stroll) with a visit to the Museu Marítim (Museu Marítim), where you can see Barcelona’s status as one of the most active ports in the Mediterranean. From here, head towards the Monument a Colom (La Rambla), and stroll the Moll de la Fusta to admire the Pailebot Santa Eulàlia, which has been immaculately restored by the museum. Saunter down the Rambla de Mar (Rambla de Mar), an undulating wooden drawbridge that leads to the glitzy Maremagnum mega-mall. At the start of the pier, embark on the Orsom Catamaran, where you can grab a drink and snack and soak up the rays and the port skyline, while sprawled out on a net just inches above the water. Back on land, about 90 minutes later, stroll down the Moll d’Espanya and turn towards the traditional fisherman’s quarter of Barceloneta, an atmospheric pocket of narrow streets and timeworn bars. Get a real taste of old-style Barcelona at the boisterous tapas bar, El Vaso de Oro (C/Balboa 6). Wedge yourself in at the bar and savour some tasty seafood morsels.
Afternoon
Revived, head to Pg Joan de Borbó and make for the beach. Douse yourself in the Med, then siesta in the afternoon sun. Pick yourself up with sangria at the beachside Salamanca Chiringuito (at the end of Pg Joan de Borbó), where you can bury your feet in the sand and watch the waves lap on the shore as the sun dips into the horizon.
Morning
Starting at the Jaume I metro, enter the ancient walled city of Barcino on C/Llibreteria, once the main road to and from Rome. Head right up C/Veguer to Plaça del Rei (Perfect Squares) and descend into a fascinating underground web of Roman walls and waterways via the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (Roman Barcelona). Also visible here are the remains of a 2nd-century workshop and an ancient bodega, a source of much Roman merrymaking. Back above ground, pause for a cafè sol at the terrace of Café-Bar L’Antiquari (Cafés & Light Eats) and bask in Barcelona’s Gothic glory days. Stroll towards the Cathedral’s spires along C/de la Pietat. Turn right onto C/Bisbe, once a Roman thoroughfare, then right again on Av de la Catedral to visit the Pia Almoina (Pia Almoina & Museu Diocesà), where you can view a section of the Roman aqueduct and ride a glass elevator past Roman wall remains. Backtrack to Plaça Nova, once the Roman gateway to Barcino, cross the plaça and continue along C/Arcs.
Afternoon
Stop for lunch at the Reial Cercle Artístic, a late 19th-century artists’ society. Ignore the “members only” sign; the restaurant is open to the public, and its tranquil balcony terrace provides a welcome breather from the crowds far below. After lunch, head up Av del Portal de l’Àngel and turn left onto C/Canuda to Plaça de la Vila de Madrid (Plaça de la Vila de Madrid). The square is a fitting end to your Roman ramble, for here are the necropolis remains, where Romans came to rest.
Witness the budding – and meteoric rise – of Picasso’s artistic genius at this unique museum. One of the world’s largest collections of the painter’s early works. See Museu Picasso.
Inaugurated in 1995, MACBA is Barcelona’s centre for modern art. Combined with the neighbouring CCCB, the two buildings form an artistic and cultural hub in the heart of El Raval. Both regularly host temporary exhibitions: the MACBA showcases contemporary artists; the CCCB is more theme-based. See Museu d’Art Contemporani & Centre de Cultura Contemporània.
The city’s gleaming contemporary art museum and it’s cutting-edge cultural centre have sparked an urban revival in the El Raval area. See Museu d’Art Contemporani & Centre de Cultura Contemporània.
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