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The closest major town east of Seville has been continuously inhabited for more than 5,000 years. Its Roman remains are truly exceptional, especially the huge necropolis. The view from the originally Roman Puerta de Córdoba (Córdoba Gate) out over the sweeping plains also shouldn’t be missed. Fine churches, palaces and alcázares adorn the site – one of the ancient castles is now restored as a spectacular parador (see Parador Alcázar del Rey, Carmona).

The main town in the Sierra Norte is a steep cluster of white-washed houses. It’s a popular place for weekend getaways by sevillanos and particularly known for producing some of the area’s famous anise-based tipples. Just 3 km (2 miles) outside of town is the magnificently situated former Carthusian monastery, now restored as part hotel, part arts centre with gallery.

Two nicknames for this town, in the plains east of Seville, render a clear idea of its chief glory and its biggest challenge. “The Town of Towers” refers to its 11 Baroque belltowers, all adorned with glazed tiles. “The Frying-Pan of Andalucía” is a reference to its searing summer temperatures, due to the fact that it’s one of the few towns not built up a hill. Écija’s archaeological museum is worth a visit.

The Río Tinto (Red River) Mines, the world’s oldest, have been exploited as a source of mineral wealth for some 5,000 years, and the gradual stripping away of the rich ore has left a weird moonscape shot through with coloured fissures. A museum details the mines’ history.

The fact that this town resembles an Old West frontier outpost is no accident. The Spaniards who settled what are now the states of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona mostly came from this part of Spain and took their architectural style with them. Horses are still a normal way to get around here – hence the hitching posts. The place bursts into life during the annual Romería, one of Spain’s largest festivals (see El Rocío’s Romería).

A guided tour of these marvellous caves – Spain’s largest – will wind through beautiful chambers with naturally coloured formations and names such as the Hut, Organ, Cathedral, Quail and Twins. The last room is a notorious crowd-pleaser – the Sala de los Culos (Chamber of the Buttocks). In addition to the twelve caverns, there are also six underground lakes, which create stunning visual effects. The “Great Lake” lies under a 70 m (230 ft) high vaulted ceiling.

Founded by the Phoenicians, Huelva was at its peak under the Romans – the Museo Provincial conserves remarkable archaeological finds. The city’s other claim to fame is as the starting point of Columbus’s epic voyage (see Discovery of America). Huelva was the first port for New World trade, until Seville took over.

These wind-blown ruins were once the third largest city in the Roman empire, founded in 206 BC and home to some half a million people during the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. He was following in the glorious footsteps of his predecessor Trajan, who was another Itálica native. There’s a huge amphitheatre to explore, as well as some fine mosaics amid the crumbling walls. Most of the wonders are still buried, however, while others have long since been quarried for their stone or moved to the Archaeological Museum in Seville (see Museo Arqueológico).

The enormously powerful Dukes of Osuna get the credit for endowing this town with exceptional architecture. The massive bulk of the Renaissance church, the Colegiata de la Asunción, dominates the scene; inside, there’s an impressive painting of the Crucifixion by José de Ribera. The Universidad, also Renaissance, has tiled towers at its corners and a beautiful central courtyard. Elsewhere, fine mansions evoke the wealth of Spain’s most powerful families (see Palacio del Marqués de la Gomera, Osuna).

Europe’s largest nature reserve includes important wetlands and shifting dunes that are gradually moving inland. The fragile ecosystem can only be visited on guided tours.