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The austerely impressive Royal Chancery dates from 1530, built shortly after the reconquista as part of the futile attempt to Christianize this Moorish quarter. The palace is attributed to architect Diego de Siloé.

At the end of Plaza Nueva stands this 16th-century brick church in Mudéjar style, built by Muslim artisans for Christian patrons. Inside the main chapel is a coffered ceiling in the Moorish tradition. The belltower was originally a minaret.

Dating from the 11th century, these are the best preserved Moorish baths in Spain. They comprise several rooms that were used for changing, meeting, massage and bathing.

This ornate 16th-century mansion was originally owned by the secretary to King Fernando and Queen Isabel. Since 1879 it has served as the Archaeological and Ethnological Museum, displaying artifacts from Granada’s past, from the Paleolithic era up until the Reconquest in 1492. A highlight is the 14th-century astrolabe, by which Moorish scientists could track the movements of the stars.

Across the road from the Casa de Castril, this church also dates from the 16th century and graces an attractive spot on the banks of the river. From here you can see the lovely towers of the Alhambra dominating the landscape.

This tree-lined esplanade follows the course of the river upstream. It is broad enough to have once accommodated tournaments and processions, but now restaurants and bars dominate the scene.

From the Paseo de los Tristes follow Calle Panaderos to reach this busy market square, where you’ll find mostly produce stalls as well as cheap eateries and bars. The square sports an Islamic gateway with a typically angled entrance as part of what remains of the upper fortifications. This is the Arco de las Pesas – if you pass through it you will come to the Albaicín’s most popular square, Plaza San Nicolás.

This magnificent terrace in front of the Iglesia de San Nicolás has such lovely views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada that it has long been dubbed El Mirador (“The Lookout Point”) de San Nicolás. The views are extraordinary at sunset, when the Alhambra glows softly ochre and the often snow-capped Sierra Nevada radiates pink in the distance.

As you wander around the labyrinth of whitewashed houses and sloping alleyways of the Albaicín quarter you will encounter many tearooms – a Moroccan tradition that is very much alive in this quarter. Possibly the best one, La Tetería del Bañuelo, Granada, consists of a series of rooms set amid delightful gardens. Here you can sip your minty brew, nibble honeyed sweets and contemplate the timeless panorama.

Check out the hilly streets off Calle Elvira, especially Caldería Vieja and Caldería Nueva, for typically Moroccan shops. The scene is indistinguishable from what you would find in Morocco itself, with the colourful wares spilling out onto the pavements (see Albaicín, Granada).